<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments for grumpygeek.com</title>
	<atom:link href="http://grumpygeek.com/?feed=comments-rss2" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://grumpygeek.com</link>
	<description>Home of the GrumpyGeek</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 29 May 2010 15:52:56 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on New build started by grumpygeek</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=180&#038;cpage=1#comment-3535</link>
		<dc:creator>grumpygeek</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 May 2010 15:52:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=180#comment-3535</guid>
		<description>I think the hex nut will work, the main reason people look into using the plastic type of nuts is back lash and friction/wear.  You can also find reasonably priced 1/2&quot; Acme flange nuts on ebay: &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=m570&amp;_nkw=1/2-10+Acme+Flange+Nut+CNC+Router+Mill+Lathe+Leadscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=m570&amp;_nkw=1/2-10+Acme+Flange+Nut+CNC+Router+Mill+Lathe+Leadscrew&lt;/a&gt;.  

That being said, I will gladly make you one of the lead nut carriers I am using, do you had any specific needs (like mounting into the side of a board instead of in the middle using tee-nuts like I have done)? It will take a few days though, my shop area is a wreck right now, been stalled on the new machine build for a few months, so the work area has accumulated all kinds of junk.

Let me know,
GrumpyGeek</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think the hex nut will work, the main reason people look into using the plastic type of nuts is back lash and friction/wear.  You can also find reasonably priced 1/2&#8243; Acme flange nuts on ebay: <a href="http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&#038;_trksid=m570&#038;_nkw=1/2-10+Acme+Flange+Nut+CNC+Router+Mill+Lathe+Leadscrew" rel="nofollow">http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&#038;_trksid=m570&#038;_nkw=1/2-10+Acme+Flange+Nut+CNC+Router+Mill+Lathe+Leadscrew</a>.  </p>
<p>That being said, I will gladly make you one of the lead nut carriers I am using, do you had any specific needs (like mounting into the side of a board instead of in the middle using tee-nuts like I have done)? It will take a few days though, my shop area is a wreck right now, been stalled on the new machine build for a few months, so the work area has accumulated all kinds of junk.</p>
<p>Let me know,<br />
GrumpyGeek</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on New build started by Paul M Cohen</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=180&#038;cpage=1#comment-3518</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul M Cohen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 07:48:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=180#comment-3518</guid>
		<description>I just got involved with a lathe project that uses 1/2&quot; Acme rod, purchased the rod, regular ACME nuts, pillow blocks... but I had not figured out how to transfer the motion until I saw your article. I will be using a hand crank so your issues with speed are not an issue.

When I looked for sources of ACME flange nuts/assemblies, the price for 1 is more than I spent on the whole project until now. Would you be willing to sell one of your nylon blocks (the wood and two threaded spacers) or at least two taped spacers or have you found another way to transfer the motion?

Is there a reason I can&#039;t just capture the hex nut in a piece of wood and then attach the wood block to the carriage I want to move?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just got involved with a lathe project that uses 1/2&#8243; Acme rod, purchased the rod, regular ACME nuts, pillow blocks&#8230; but I had not figured out how to transfer the motion until I saw your article. I will be using a hand crank so your issues with speed are not an issue.</p>
<p>When I looked for sources of ACME flange nuts/assemblies, the price for 1 is more than I spent on the whole project until now. Would you be willing to sell one of your nylon blocks (the wood and two threaded spacers) or at least two taped spacers or have you found another way to transfer the motion?</p>
<p>Is there a reason I can&#8217;t just capture the hex nut in a piece of wood and then attach the wood block to the carriage I want to move?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Dust Control by Bob</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?page_id=105&#038;cpage=1#comment-3121</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:24:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?page_id=105#comment-3121</guid>
		<description>For drywall sanding dust - I made something very similar to KShimeld&#039;s - but I fill the bucket about 1/3 full of water - I&#039;ve never been electrically shocked by it - and it gets pretty much all the drywall sanding dust trapped into the water.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For drywall sanding dust &#8211; I made something very similar to KShimeld&#8217;s &#8211; but I fill the bucket about 1/3 full of water &#8211; I&#8217;ve never been electrically shocked by it &#8211; and it gets pretty much all the drywall sanding dust trapped into the water.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Problems and solutions by grumpygeek</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=374&#038;cpage=1#comment-2951</link>
		<dc:creator>grumpygeek</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Mar 2010 17:40:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=374#comment-2951</guid>
		<description>More like too cold, I have done a little bit of work, but not much.  Warm days are coming soon so progress should pick up.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>More like too cold, I have done a little bit of work, but not much.  Warm days are coming soon so progress should pick up.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on DIY ACME Lead Nuts by grumpygeek.com &#187; Blog Archive &#187; One step forward, one step back.</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=240&#038;cpage=1#comment-2950</link>
		<dc:creator>grumpygeek.com &#187; Blog Archive &#187; One step forward, one step back.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Mar 2010 17:34:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=240#comment-2950</guid>
		<description>[...] was really hoping to get the speeds closer to 60IPM, it could be that my DIY lead nuts are too tight, there are alignment issues, or I just had unrealistic expectations, time will tell I [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] was really hoping to get the speeds closer to 60IPM, it could be that my DIY lead nuts are too tight, there are alignment issues, or I just had unrealistic expectations, time will tell I [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Rockcliff Mini Model D by grumpygeek.com &#187; Blog Archive &#187; One step forward, one step back.</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?page_id=9&#038;cpage=1#comment-2949</link>
		<dc:creator>grumpygeek.com &#187; Blog Archive &#187; One step forward, one step back.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Mar 2010 17:33:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?page_id=9#comment-2949</guid>
		<description>[...] the power supply and electronics in a cheap storage container, which is exactly what I did with my last machine.  I used an x-acto knife instead of a drill this time, and did not any issues with the plastic [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] the power supply and electronics in a cheap storage container, which is exactly what I did with my last machine.  I used an x-acto knife instead of a drill this time, and did not any issues with the plastic [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Problems and solutions by Bob Douglass</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=374&#038;cpage=1#comment-2936</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Douglass</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Mar 2010 19:00:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=374#comment-2936</guid>
		<description>What happened here? Have you got too busy to post?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What happened here? Have you got too busy to post?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on New build started by Wilbert Ledlow</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=180&#038;cpage=1#comment-2929</link>
		<dc:creator>Wilbert Ledlow</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 08:02:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=180#comment-2929</guid>
		<description>A dust collector alone is rarely sufficient protection against the dangers of dust. In reality, even the best dust collector can leave clouds of minute airborne dust particles floating through the air. To adequately control both huge volumes of large particle debris and the considerable amount of fine dust particles that woodworking machinery produces, it is almost always necessary to supplement your dust collector with an air filtration system.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A dust collector alone is rarely sufficient protection against the dangers of dust. In reality, even the best dust collector can leave clouds of minute airborne dust particles floating through the air. To adequately control both huge volumes of large particle debris and the considerable amount of fine dust particles that woodworking machinery produces, it is almost always necessary to supplement your dust collector with an air filtration system.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on DIY Couplings by grumpygeek.com &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Problems and solutions</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?p=270&#038;cpage=1#comment-2827</link>
		<dc:creator>grumpygeek.com &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Problems and solutions</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Feb 2010 00:36:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?p=270#comment-2827</guid>
		<description>[...] issue I had was that after drilling thru the lead screws and attaching my DIY couplings,  I was unhappy with the results.  All of them had some amount of wobble, which I found [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] issue I had was that after drilling thru the lead screws and attaching my DIY couplings,  I was unhappy with the results.  All of them had some amount of wobble, which I found [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on New Router Mount by grumpygeek</title>
		<link>http://grumpygeek.com/?page_id=135&#038;cpage=1#comment-2777</link>
		<dc:creator>grumpygeek</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 02:16:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grumpygeek.com/?page_id=135#comment-2777</guid>
		<description>I think I understand what you are saying, maybe I will take this approach with the new machine, it may actually be easier since the only part of the Z axis moves on the new machine.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think I understand what you are saying, maybe I will take this approach with the new machine, it may actually be easier since the only part of the Z axis moves on the new machine.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
